16 Aug 2024
My friend Cody has been pitching a replacement for the granular 10 point BGG rating scale:
1 - bad won’t ever play again
2 - didn’t care for it, won’t actively try and play it again
3 - liked it, would definitely play again, maybe even buy it
4 - actively want to play again and would like to buy so I can play as much as often as possible
To avoid confusion with BGG number ratings, I’m going to use ⭐️ for the Cody scale. Sorry, didn’t pitch it as a star system, but it’s hard to compare without some different indicator.
My suggested rough mapping:
- BGG 8-10 maps to 4 (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️)
- BGG 6-7 maps to 3 (⭐️⭐️⭐️)
- BGG 4-5 maps to 2 (⭐️⭐️)
- BGG 1-3 maps to 1 (⭐️)
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Anything BGG 8 and up is something that as a board game person (someone with a collection) I want to own. These are all great. So… smoosh them all together into a single ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ rating, sure. I’d lose a bit of definition in what are my greatest of all time, but that’s fine. I’m still heartily recommending any here.
⭐️⭐️⭐️
To me the BGG 6s and 7s map to “would play again and maybe own”. I own plenty of 7s. I also own 6s, but something at a 6 is asking to be phased out of my collection. Famously, the BGG 7 rating is the most crowded, with 7.0 being borderline okay and 7.9 being amazing. So having all these (plus the decidedly situational 6s) as ⭐️⭐️⭐️ is similarly covering a lot of ground and I’d guess this is the most dominant rating and lacking in clearer signal.
⭐️⭐️
The summary of ⭐️⭐️ is “yeah, if someone else is pushing to play it I will, but I’m not going to be the one asking for it.” Which is not something I want in my collection (otherwise people will see it on the shelf, ask “can we play that?” And I’ll go “uh… sure?”). That maps to the BGG 4s and 5s, the mediocre to reluctant.
⭐️
Anything BGG 3 and under is different flavors of garbage. I have no love lost lumping that into ⭐️. It’s not like I’m going to walk someone through the nuance of why one is slightly less terrible than another. They’re all bad, run away.
Thoughts
Overall, what the Cody scale asks is “what extra are you communicating by letting people rate on a 10 point scale? I do think it’s overkill for most people, and that the extremes aren’t providing critical information. However with this system I do think you’re going to have a crowded set of ⭐️⭐️⭐️ just like you had crowded 7s. And I do think people want to know if a title is more trending towards ⭐️⭐️ or ⭐️⭐️⭐️. The question is whether individual raters communicate that or whether that’s the job of review aggregation to add in the decimal point.
Would it get more casual folks to rate things and overcome the BGG hardcore’s oversized influence of the top games? Maybe a little. But honestly, who other than the hardcore rates anything? Am I in any way contributing to the ratings on Amazon items, or what gets rolled up into MetaCritic for video games or Rotten Tomatoes for movies? Nope. I give zero input to those systems. Most of the ratings systems I’m coerced to interacting with are of the variety of “give 5 stars or you are sabotaging someone’s livelihood,” which is its own problem and leads us down the path of that Black Mirror episode with Bryce Dallas Howard. Yikes.
Thankfully that’s not the vibe here. A 4 point scale seems fine. If you can make it happen, go for it Cody. In the meantime I’m going to stick to the BGG scale because that’s the only place I know people actually look at ratings.
08 Aug 2024
After I created my first pedalboard, I learned so much, and assembled a second board. Let me go over the contents of my second board, in signal chain order.
When I started playing guitar I would tune myself to match songs off the radio (don’t recommend) until I learned how to use a pitch pipe (better, still not good). In more recent times I would use a phone to tune, but I hated it. Interacting with my phone while I want to be in a guitar playing headspace is the anti-vibe. Just this last year I got my first headstock clip-on tuner, and it’s a revelation. With that I didn’t have as strong of a need for an on-board pedal tuner, but I’m glad I got one.
The Polytune is one of the most popular tuning pedals available. It’s main differentiator is that it can tell you the tuning accuracy of all your strings at once with an open strum. In theory this lets you quickly identify which string is out of tune, which is neat, but not something I turn to often. What I find more useful is the live readout of whatever pitch I’m playing. That can reinforce knowing the note names of what you’re actually playing, or help you figure out unfamiliar instruments by piping a microphone into your board.
At first I had the tuner set up to go out of a forked output from my Ernie Ball VP JR volume pedal. This meant that when I quieted via the volume pedal the tuner would still function for silent tuning (without needing to engage its foot switch). I’m currently not opting for this configuration because it just means one extra cable to disconnect and connect when I pack the pedal board.
This demo sold me on the Attack Decay. But I hedged by getting the smaller “pico” version of the pedal, worrying that it was a nuanced effect not worth of board space. That was a mistake. One of the highlights is sending the threshold triggered signal through another set of effects in a separate send/receive loop, with is only present on the larger version of the pedal. Additionally the larger pedal has a fuzz effect built into it. As it’s an EHX pedal, as far as I can tell that a Big Muff style fuzz. So the pedal doesn’t need to a quirky toy, it can be a fuzz pedal that also does fun quirky stuff. Once I realize that, I got the larger version of the pedal and bumped the Big Muff off my board.
The bigger pedal also has 3 programmable favorites. Currently, mine are:
- Basic fuzz
- A trigger for a low growl of fuzz on stronger notes, which is very satisfying when playing a lead line
- A bow-like effect with late attack and quick decay
I have the send/receive going through a Behringer Graphic EQ, set to create a kind of AM radio vibe that makes the fuzz feel more distant from the dry signal. I’ve also tried putting in a Flamma FC05 Mod so I can experiment with ways to make the effect signal unique. But as far as board space goes, I don’t want to dedicate a whole second stream of petals just for this occasional effect.
I got the Q-Tron because it’s on John Mayer‘s board and appears prominently in a couple of his songs. It’s an envelope filter, effectively an auto wah. It creates truly funky tones that have a quacking vowel sound to them. It’s very sensitive to signal levels, thus why it’s so early in the signal chain. It’s one of my least used pedals, but when the song is right for that vibe this is a super fun sound.
The Pitch Fork is one of my most used petals, primarily because it’s quicker to downshift my guitar one octave with this pedal then to swap in a proper bass guitar. When I’m laying down a loop, I’m gonna need a bass line, and this gets me there fast. Mind you, the pedal does a ton more than that. It can thicken your sound by adding octaves above and/or below, with or without your the dry signal. Or you can do the same thing with fifths (power chords all day), fourths, thirds, or even a warbly detune. I haven’t yet become a regular expression pedal user, but this is one of the few pedals where I’ve played around with attaching a pedal.
When I went down this pedal rabbit hole, I looked at a lot of people’s boards on Reddit. And you see the Morning Glory on a ton of them, often described as an “always on” pedal. I don’t leave mine on all the time, but it is definitely a common add of special sauce that makes everything sound nicer. It’s some subtle boost and crunch that’s easy to switch on without losing anything, or to stack grit into my drive effects which come afterwards.
I got the Triumph as a flexible EQ overdrive pedal. As with many pedals, I was directed to it by The JHS Show where it was described as a better Bad Monkey. It saves me space over something I had done before which is putting an EQ pedal directly after a drive pedal to shape it. This lets me do that in one pedal. But then I went and stacked a total of four drive pedals on my board and that leaves me less interested in fine adjustments to the sound of each of them. Instead I leave this one dialed in somewhere that sounds different from the other three drive pedals and call it good.
I was charmed into the PG 14 pedal by the infectious energy of Paul Gilbert‘s multiple videos done in partnership with JHS to promote the pedal. I had never heard Paul Gilbert play before, which makes it weird that I have his signature pedal (named for his shoe size) on my board. But this thing sounds freaking awesome. It gets to this crunchy almost glitchy space that sounds so raw and cool. So that’s the configuration where I leave it by default, but I also know from prior experimentation that I can turn it into a number of different sounds if I need to.
I regretted not buying a DS1 in the 90s when I should have. I probably would’ve played my electric guitar a whole lot more. This pedal sold 1.5 million units for a reason. It sounds great. Bright and crunchy, good for lead lines or for rhythm. I squeezed this off my board for a bit because I had fancy new pedals… but when I tried hooking it up again I realized it really did earn its slot. It’s a classic.
I’ve never been ecstatic about my EHX Small Stone, as I could never get its phaser effect to be subtle enough for more frequent use. The Lillian fixes that handily by having a mix knob, but also so many other knobs that let me dial in a variety of gentle (or not gentle) phasing. That makes me a lot more likely to stomp this switch. Additionally, as one of my later acquired pedals I felt like I could choose one that I vibed with aesthetically, and the art on this pedal is great.
When I saw the amazing art on the Julianna, I stopped in my tracks. But chorus hasn’t been an effect that I got on with well enough to warrant a board slot. So why not a chorus pedal that’s for people that aren’t so into chorus? The Julianna demo video from Walrus Audio sold me on this being a tone I was interested in… but the Julianna is the more advanced stereo version of the Julia, with a higher price to boot. So I opted for the Julia instead. And my instincts proved correct; I’m far more likely to use a mild chorus.
I love the sound of tremolo. Technically my amp has tremolo built in. But it lacks additional controls, and using the amp’s tremolo has the drawback that I might want different levels of tremolo on different overdubs within my loops. So I got a tiny standalone tremolo pedal. The Tidewater meets that needs tidily. I can control the rate and it has an indicator light to help dial that in. Plus I can adjust the mix to give a more subtle volume modulation.
As mentioned in my lessons learned, I was interested in a combo reverb/delay to cut down on wiring complexity. An often recommended option for that is the Keeley Caverns. In researching that I found the Parallax as a similar pedal with different options on the reverb side. It has a “shimmer” hall option, reverse reverb, and a “soft focus”, all of which give me something my previous reverb (EHX Holy Grail didn’t have. There are an intimidating number of knobs on the Parallax. Or at least that’s how it felt at first. This is one pedal where I’ve most engaged with its various settings. I can dial it in for a more standard reverb and a short “slap back” delay, or I can crank everything up and take it into orbit.
My experience with looping warrants its own post. But I’ll summarize by saying that upgrading my loop pedal was one of my most researched and most impactful decisions. Specifically I opted to trade up for something that had rhythm and had 2 loops so I could do verse/chorus alternating improvisation. I use this constantly and I absolutely love it. The only thing lacking is that I want to get an external foot switch to add tap tempo.
07 Aug 2024
After creating my first pedalboard and living it with it for a while, I had some lessons:
- Rail height. The 3 rails of the Metro 24 is an awkward height. Most pedals are 2 rails worth of height, a wah or volume pedal is 3 rails high, but those are less central to me and I don’t mind having those off the board. There are pedal switchers that are 1 rail height, but if you only have 1 row of pedals I’m not sure those are needed. So if you’re just doing regular sized pedals on a 3 rail system you’re going to end up with sideways pedals to use the whole space. I wanted to increase to 4 rails so I could get 2 parallel rows of regular sized pedals.
- Power supply fit. The flat Metro 24 did technically fit my power supply underneath, but it was a tight fit that meant that the power connectors had to all be right angles to fit at all, which for the cords that came with it meant the pedals had to take the straight connectors which created other fit issues. Better off planning of a matching power supply to solve this.
- Number of power outputs. The power supply had 8 outputs, which seems generous but I was able to fit more pedals than that on the board. So I ended up daisy chaining off some of those isolated outputs. And with that I started to introduce noise issues.
- Tuner staging. The volume pedal had an output for a tuner, which allowed me to use the volume pedal to mute while tuning. I like that better than using the foot switch on the tuner itself. However with the volume pedal off the board this introduced another cable that had to be managed when packing/unpacking the board. Not worth it.
- Combo pedals. Due to the strain I was putting on the number of pedals and density of cables, I started to see the value in combo pedals (e.g. reverb and delay in one). These combo pedals can cut down on overall complexity
- Patch cables. Flat patch cables are a must. The Livewire ones I picked up at Guitar Center were too bulky and stiff, making it hard to get a nice tight board. I’m not really interested in cutting/soldering my own, especially as I’ve been experimenting rapidly, so I needed storebought fixed length cables. The MXR cables were okay… still a bit bulky. The best I found were the EBS Premium Gold Flat (flat and flexible). But I filled out the board mostly with Rock Stock cables that gave me a variety of lengths for a reasonable price.
- Velcro. The original video I referenced to build my board recommending using minimal velcro to attach pedals. Maybe that’s okay if you’re going to leave your board in one configuration, but I was experimenting and moving things around. For my next board, velcro all the way across.
It was time to build my second board. After more research I landed on two essential choices:
Another key lesson was planning for the power draw from each pedal to make sure I knew which output to use for each and where I could afford to daisy chain. Thankfully there’s a website to help with that, and I was able to build a table to help plan for my next board:
| Brand |
Model |
Power (mA) |
| Behringer |
EQ |
8 |
| Behringer |
Compressor |
30 |
| EHX |
Attack Decay |
140 |
| EHX |
PitchFork |
25 |
| EHX |
Small Stone |
12 |
| EHX |
Q-tron |
10 |
| JHS |
PG-14 |
67 |
| JHS |
Tidewater |
3 |
| JHS |
Morning glory |
43 |
| Keeley |
Parallax |
75 |
| TC Electronics |
Ditto+ |
100 |
| TC Electronics |
Polytune3 |
44 |
| Wampler |
Triumph |
21 |
| BOSS |
DS-1 |
4 |
| BOSS |
RC-10R |
250 |
Next up, I’ll cover the pedals and signal chain on the new board.
